After a July '72 surf I'm hiking with my 7'2" single fin Dick Brewer back to Bobby Ramos's VW bug to drive back to our Big Sur house at Ventana. I had a summer job there between Junior & Senior year in college. My hair was the typical shoulder length for the times. No leashes for boards then. Who knew? Very rocky spots here so you swam & hoped all would be well...& knew how to work with glass & resin! Haha
