This was taken the summer between my Junior & Senior year of college when I got a job being a busboy at a little cafe in Big Sur where Ventana is now. I lived in the old Homestead house (about 100 years old then). I hooked up with another guy my age who had a couple of boards & let me use one. He was from the area & he showed me the Big Sur River mouth where there was a good right point break on south swells. I was in Heaven! I just haunted that place! I was able to hone my riding skills there because I was the closest surfer to there as every other surfer lived in the Monterey area about 30 miles away. I was there everyday that summer & I surfed it in every condition from small to head high, onshore winds & off shore winds. And my long brown hair got nicely sun bleached! 😎😊
